In the Spring-Summer collection Raf Simons, Artistic Director of Christian Dior, instigates an exploration of the past combined with ideas of a near future, democratising the traditions of haute couture by taking them into the realm of the pret-a-porter.
“In the last haute couture collection and show, I was interested in the process of finding something extremely modern through something very historical; particularly through a juxtaposition of different themes, ” explains Raf Simons.
The transposing of traditional technical details is employed at the service of structural form; bodices become skirts, jackets become blouses,
smocking and openwork structures, while the construction of footwear is hand knitted. A repeated layering of traditional silk jacquards appears as a purposeful stratification of history, while new ‘micro jacquards’ take the form of a digital grid, resonating with the traditional Dior Canage quilting, itself elaborated on and transformed in the leather goods.
The show this season appears at the Cour Carrée du Louvre, the oldest courtyard of the Louvre Palace complex and one of the ancient hearts of Paris. The site itself has seen a multi-layering of history, today emphasised by the space-age interior of the show venue, with an emphasis on the ancient and contemporary, the past and the future in one.